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Thimlich Ohinga: UNESCO World Heritage site management is failing a local community

The walls remain: Thimlich Ohinga Exclusionary heritage management is failing a community in KenyaThe walls remain: Thimlich Ohinga Exclusionary heritage management is failing a community in Kenya

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Even as Thim­lich Ohinga’s dry stone walls crumble, the loc­al com­munity con­tin­ues to be excluded from the man­age­ment and care of the Kenyan UNESCO World Her­it­age site. 

This accord­ing to Doreen Nyam­weya who shares her second “Good Tour­ism” Insight. (You too can share your per­spect­ive.)

Thimlich Ohinga: Bitter irony

Last month, July 2025, I spent time in Migori County, Kenya, on a field vis­it for my MSc thes­is on respons­ible tour­ism aware­ness levels among host com­munit­ies in her­it­age des­tin­a­tions. While the aim of my vis­it was to col­lect data, I made a few obser­va­tions that have shaped my broad­er per­spect­ive on her­it­age management. 

I vis­ited Thim­lich Ohinga, a World Her­it­age Site in Migori, Kenya. Dur­ing my time there, more ques­tions than answers emerged on the impact of tour­ism on the loc­al community. 

Mainly, I was dis­turbed by the level of loc­al exclu­sion from tour­ism activ­it­ies around the Thim­lich Ohinga. The cent­ral­isa­tion of decision mak­ing on devel­op­ment, man­age­ment, and her­it­age inter­pret­a­tion has side­lined the very people that have pro­tec­ted the loc­al her­it­age for years. As a res­ult, pub­lic appre­ci­ation of this import­ant her­it­age site has weakened.

The bit­ter irony is that des­pite the World Her­it­age Convention’s 1972 leg­al frame­work pri­or­it­ising cul­tur­al prop­erty pre­ser­va­tion and nature con­ser­va­tion, policy for Thim­lich Ohinga fails to set out clear guidelines and pro­vi­sions for co-man­age­ment agree­ments, loc­al employ­ment quotas, capa­city-build­ing pro­grams, and bene­fit-shar­ing schemes. 

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What is Thimlich Ohinga?

Situ­ated north­w­est of the town of Migori, in the Lake Vic­tor­ia region, this dry stone walled set­tle­ment was prob­ably built in the 16th cen­tury. The Ohinga (set­tle­ment) seems to have served as a fort for com­munit­ies and live­stock, but also defined social entit­ies and rela­tion­ships linked to lineage.

Thim­lich Ohinga is the largest and best pre­served of these tra­di­tion­al enclos­ures. It is an excep­tion­al example of the tra­di­tion of massive dry stone walled enclos­ures, typ­ic­al of the first pas­tor­al com­munit­ies in the Lake Vic­tor­ia Basin, which per­sisted from the 16th to the mid-20th century.

Source: UNESCO (descrip­tion avail­able under license CC-BY-SA IGO 3.0).

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Exclusion of locals threatens the cultural heritage of Thimlich Ohinga

In 2018, the UNESCO World Her­it­age des­ig­na­tion for Thim­lich Ohinga prom­ised a tour­ism-led eco­nom­ic trans­form­a­tion for a region eager for devel­op­ment. But much like the prom­ised bene­fits of tour­ism, improve­ments in access­ib­il­ity, infra­struc­ture, and amen­it­ies to facil­it­ate tour­ism and oth­er eco­nom­ic devel­op­ment are yet to mater­i­al­ise for the host com­munity due to chron­ic underfunding. 

Sev­en years on from World Her­it­age des­ig­na­tion, an hour-long motor­cycle ride is still the easi­est and fast­est way to access the Thim­lich Ohinga her­it­age site. The road is rocky, bumpy, and some sec­tions are barely pass­able dur­ing the rainy season. 

So now loc­als’ interest in tour­ism devel­op­ment, and, more wor­ry­ingly, their deep con­nec­tion to their her­it­age and sense of col­lect­ive respons­ib­il­ity for its pro­tec­tion, is weak­en­ing under the impos­i­tion of exclu­sion­ary her­it­age man­age­ment practices. 

The big prob­lem is that Thim­lich Ohinga her­it­age man­age­ment staff are pre­dom­in­antly from out­side the host com­munity. Fur­ther­more, busi­nesses with no loc­al ties, and tour oper­at­ors based in dis­tant cit­ies, are reap­ing the bulk of whatever profits are avail­able in an already frail mar­ket as small loc­al vendors and com­munity-owned guest houses struggle to com­pete against them. 

Don’t miss oth­er “Good Tour­ism” con­tent about Africa

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Exclusionary management is not necessarily a Kenya problem

Unlike Thim­lich Ohinga, the “sac­red” Mijikenda Kaya Forests, anoth­er Kenyan World Her­it­age site, suc­cess­fully exhib­its com­munity inclu­sion and pro­motes com­munity-led tour­ism ini­ti­at­ives through the involve­ment of vil­lage eld­ers in decision-mak­ing processes. 

Of course I real­ise that many her­it­age sites across Kenya may pro­ject suc­cess while strug­gling with the hid­den impacts of tour­ism on host com­munit­ies. These hid­den impacts may go bey­ond eco­nom­ic exclu­sion to include cul­tur­al com­modi­fic­a­tion, erosion of tra­di­tion, dis­place­ment, social dis­in­teg­ra­tion, and envir­on­ment­al degrad­a­tion that dir­ectly impacts com­munity well­being. And many of these prob­lems may be inev­it­able with or without loc­al par­ti­cip­a­tion in decision making. 

Regard­less, at least loc­als have a say in their suc­cess … and in their failure.

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Critical vulnerabilities are emerging at Thimlich Ohinga

How can some­thing so near be so out of reach? My motor­bike rider, though a res­id­ent of the com­munity, admit­ted to not hav­ing been to the Thim­lich Ohinga her­it­age site. He per­ceives it as a lux­ury to have to pay for access. 

When par­tak­ing in a guided tour of the Thim­lich Ohinga her­it­age site, my guide expressed con­cerns about how the low tour­ism activ­ity in the area was fail­ing to incentiv­ise the com­munity to pro­tect it. The com­munity was ques­tion­ing why they should pro­tect some­thing that offers them no tan­gible bene­fit. Indeed grow­ing resent­ment has made the her­it­age site vul­ner­able to neg­lect, exploit­a­tion, van­dal­ism, and theft than ever before. 

Thimlich Ohinga's exclusionary heritage management is failing to maintain the site. Pic by Doreen Nyamweya.Thimlich Ohinga's exclusionary heritage management is failing to maintain the site. Pic by Doreen Nyamweya.
“[A] col­lapsed sec­tion of wall has been left unre­paired des­pite present­ing a poten­tial haz­ard to vis­it­ors.” Pic by Doreen Nyamweya.

Anoth­er vul­ner­ab­il­ity is the chron­ic under­fund­ing. Under­fund­ing pre­vents her­it­age man­age­ment from acquir­ing essen­tial resources for main­ten­ance, con­ser­va­tion work, and robust doc­u­ment­a­tion. This has cre­ated a react­ive approach to pre­ser­va­tion rather than a pro­act­ive approach. 

Dam­age is only addressed after it has occurred rather than pre­ven­ted. In some instances, it is nev­er addressed. For example, a col­lapsed sec­tion of wall has been left unre­paired des­pite present­ing a poten­tial haz­ard to visitors.

This sort of neg­lect extends to the frag­men­ted legis­lat­ive frame­works, creak­ing bur­eau­cracy, and lack of dis­tinct lines of respons­ib­il­ity between the des­tin­a­tion man­age­ment organ­isa­tion, gov­ern­ment bod­ies, and her­it­age organ­isa­tions that com­prom­ise the con­ser­va­tion effort. 

Nobody from out­side the com­munity who has assumed respons­ib­il­ity for Thim­lich Ohinga appears to be pre­pared to fix the mess. Per­haps loc­als have the answers.

Anoth­er vul­ner­ab­il­ity is Thim­lich Ohinga’s fail­ure to embrace tech­no­logy that might make it easi­er to make informed decisions about con­ser­va­tion pri­or­it­ies. Des­pite being in a digit­al age in 2025, many World Her­it­age Sites lack up-to-date data and the appro­pri­ate digit­isa­tion of asset invent­or­ies. Thim­lich Ohinga is no excep­tion. The her­it­age site pro­cesses access fee pay­ments and vis­it­or check-ins manu­ally due to poor net­work connectivity.

Con­tents ^

We must avoid tears of division

For dec­ades, com­munit­ies have been the primary cus­todi­ans of loc­al cul­tur­al her­it­age. Indi­gen­ous know­ledge of the land and folk­lore are an inher­ited respons­ib­il­ity passed down from gen­er­a­tion to gen­er­a­tion. It’s highly valu­able; espe­cially in the con­text of those people in that place.

How­ever, as extern­al interest in this indi­gen­ous her­it­age grows, and form­al man­age­ment struc­tures are estab­lished to ‘man­age’ and ‘pre­serve’ it, host com­munit­ies can be dis­pos­sessed of their col­lect­ive respons­ib­il­ity; the social cohe­sion neces­sary for the col­lect­ive pro­tec­tion of their her­it­age can be under­mined; and loc­al com­mit­ment to hold­ing on to what is theirs can be eroded. 

What was once a source of pride and sense of loc­al iden­tity can start to feel like a cor­por­ate brand owned by oth­ers. Con­sequently, even the place ceases to feel like an ances­tral home. Rather, it becomes just anoth­er attrac­tion for out­siders; a theme park. The social fab­ric tears, driv­ing exclu­sion­ary her­it­age man­age­ment prac­tices even fur­ther away from host communities.

Read more by Doreen Nyam­weya

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What now for Thimlich Ohinga?

The truth is that a strong, empowered com­munity is the most resi­li­ent defence against many of these her­it­age man­age­ment chal­lenges. In years to come, there will be her­it­age sites that have got man­age­ment right, and there will be those that have failed past the point of no return. 

To move for­ward in Thim­lich Ohinga, it is evid­ent that loc­al­ised solu­tions are needed. Blanket solu­tions have proven inef­fect­ive. Site-spe­cif­ic strategies must be developed togeth­er with the com­munity if sus­tain­able her­it­age man­age­ment is to be realised.

First off, the host com­munity at Thim­lich Ohinga must be allowed to form appro­pri­ate com­munity asso­ci­ations and/or cooper­at­ives to provide some struc­ture to their nego­ti­ations with extern­al stake­hold­ers. Cooper­at­ives can help man­age loc­al ser­vices, pre­vent loc­al exploit­a­tion, while pro­mot­ing fin­an­cial sustainability.

Bey­ond this, strong loc­al rep­res­ent­a­tion on her­it­age man­age­ment boards is fun­da­ment­al. Loc­al rep­res­ent­at­ives can chal­lenge out­side “experts” by bring­ing insight­ful, on-the-ground con­text that will help bridge gaps between inten­tion and con­sequence, inform prag­mat­ic decision mak­ing, and improve account­ab­il­ity for loc­al pop­u­la­tions. Moreover, it will ensure inter­ac­tions are more than token­ist­ic; that there is a genu­ine shared gov­ernance that accounts for loc­al needs and interests.

Fenced out. Thimlich Ohinga's UNESCO Worlds Heritage management is failing a local community in KenyaFenced out. Thimlich Ohinga's UNESCO Worlds Heritage management is failing a local community in Kenya
Loc­als deserve “a ring-fenced level of involve­ment, invest­ment, and fair share of any bene­fits of tour­ism and oth­er eco­nom­ic devel­op­ment”. Pic by Doreen Nyamweya.

And once that is achieved, host com­munit­ies could then seek leg­al coun­sel to gain clar­ity on her­it­age own­er­ship rights and appro­pri­ate gov­ernance struc­tures. It will empower the host com­munit­ies to nego­ti­ate for a ring-fenced level of involve­ment, invest­ment, and fair share of any bene­fits of tour­ism and oth­er eco­nom­ic devel­op­ment that taps the her­it­age value of the site.

Ulti­mately, UNESCO World Her­it­age sites like Kenya’s Thim­lich Ohinga are a power­ful remind­er that the true resi­li­ence of cul­tur­al her­it­age lies not only in its phys­ic­al pre­ser­va­tion but also in the endur­ing inclu­sion of those who live with it: the host community. 

Con­tents ^

What do you think? 

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About the author

Doreen NyamweyaDoreen Nyamweya
Doreen Nyam­weya

Doreen Nyam­weya, Tour­ism Officer in Nyamira County, Kenya, is a sus­tain­able tour­ism spe­cial­ist and a stu­dent and advoc­ate of respons­ible tour­ism management. 

Ms Nyamweya’s areas of expert­ise include tour­ism research, des­tin­a­tion man­age­ment, sus­tain­ab­il­ity assess­ment, product devel­op­ment, and respons­ible tour­ism marketing. 

You can con­nect with Doreen on Linked­In.

Featured image (top of post)

Google Map screen grab of Kenya’s Thim­lich Ohinga, a UNESCO World Her­it­age site whose man­age­ment lacks loc­al com­munity involve­ment accord­ing to Doreen Nyamweya.

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